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Duck Eggs; Creative marketing Plan Required
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by Dyan Carlson
07/01/06 Organic Producer Magazine
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Your customers may never have experienced either a farm-fresh chicken or duck egg and may need to be educated about eggs that retain their firmness and do not spread in the pan because their freshness doesn't allow their structure time to break down. The flavor of a duck egg is richer. Think of the difference between skim milk and heavy cream. It's important that your customers know that duck eggs also have a much higher fat content and more cholesterol than chicken eggs, but since eggs tend to make up a small part of the diet, this shouldn't be a problem. Moderation is always the key to good eating. The yolk of a very fresh free-range egg, be it chicken or duck, will be deep orange and can be mistaken for being "bloody" by those inexperienced with the eggs of real free-range poultry. The color comes from the fact that the chicken or duck was able to eat naturally--including bugs and grass--and not just feed. My farm dad calls this "nature's salad bar." In the winter, when grass and bugs are scarce, the yolk color will be pale.
Duck eggs, no matter where they come from, have more albumen (the protein in the white) than chicken eggs. Some pastry chefs prefer them because the extra protein provides a bigger base upon which the cake can rise. This also applies to meringues, but in my opinion, the whites of duck eggs do impart a bit of a "gamey" flavor to the meringue. Longer beating is required, because it takes more time to break down the albumen, but the whites will hold their peaks much longer than meringues made with chicken eggs.
It is also because of the increased protein that a duck egg can become firm and tough if it is overcooked. This applies to all forms of cooking, including fried or boiled, and in the latter case, the eggs will turn rubbery if they are cooked too long. The proper method for hard boiling duck eggs is to cover them with cold water, bring to a boil, remove from the heat and let sit in the water for 13 minutes. Drain the hot water and replace with cold water. Take each egg and roll it on the counter to crackle the shells (this will help release the heat) and return to the water. Add some ice cubes to the water and refrigerate.
Finding customers for duck eggs at the local farmers' market may be difficult; however, Asian markets can be a perfect place to sell duck eggs. They are used quite frequently in China to make steamed sponge cakes (again, because of their ability to provide a higher lift to baked goods) and the very popular "salted eggs" whose yolks are used to make fillings for moon cakes, a traditional sweet made for the Moon Festival. Restaurants known for eclectic or fusion cooking are good candidates, since their chefs are more apt to incorporate new ingredients and their customers more willing to try something different. Offer free samples and challenge chefs, and especially bakers, to compare the results of finished products containing chicken eggs versus duck eggs.
It is important that free-range eggs and those going directly from farm to market be fresh. Ducks will contribute to a communal nest, but unlike chickens, they aren't as particular about where they lay their eggs. While gathering each morning, be sure to walk the entire pen area. If you are unsure of the freshness of an egg and whether it was laid since your last gather, destroy it. Preserving the integrity of your product and reputation is paramount.
It was only after I had left my position at a free-range egg and chicken farm and had begun working with a French restaurant that I actually tasted my first duck egg. That salad, a classic French dish of frisee with lardons and poached duck egg, will forever be ingrained in my taste memory. It was simple, terribly chic and elegant--French cuisine at its most basic. I've included the recipe and encourage you to make copies and give it to everyone who is considering purchasing your duck eggs. The most effective marketing and education can be done in the simplest ways, such as with a recipe card.
Frisee Salad with Lardons and Poached Duck Eggs
Frisee, a more delicate relative of curly endive, can be found in the specialty produce section. Lardons are nothing more than a dice of thick slab bacon. It's important to use quality ingredients in this salad because each one stands out.
Ingredients:
1/2 pound of frisee
8 ounces of slab bacon or thick-cut bacon slices, diced
2 tablespoons of distilled white vinegar
4 large duck eggs
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Directions:
1. Tear the frisee into bite-sized pieces and put in a large bowl. Set aside.
2. Over medium heat, fry the bacon until crisp. Remove from skillet. Keep the bacon fat in the pan for later use.
3. While the bacon is frying, use a saucepan or fry pan to heat about 1 inch of water to just a simmer. Add the white vinegar and continue to keep at barely a simmer.
Now here's the tricky part: Break each duck egg into a small shallow bowl and then slide the egg into the water while forming the whites with a spoon, pushing them back towards the yolk. Be careful not to break the yolks, but keep the whites as close as possible to them. Repeat with the remaining eggs.
4. Simmer eggs about 2 minutes for a runny yolk, 3-4 minutes for a firmer yolk. It is important that the yolk be a bit runny because its creaminess adds to the dressing.
5. Remove eggs from the simmering water and put on a warm plate covered with paper towels.
6. Working fast, add the shallots and cooked bacon to the skillet used to fry the bacon. Sauté for about 1 minute, then add the balsamic vinegar. Boil for a few seconds, then add the frisee lettuce. Quickly stir altogether then divide among 4 bowls or plates.
7. Top each salad with one warm poached duck egg, salt and pepper. Serve with plenty of French bread.
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